The battle of Dybbol, 1864

The main reason we parked for a couple of nights was to visit the Dybbol battlefield.  The nearby town of Sonderborg spans both sides of the Alssund. We weer on the western bank.  In the distance is the bridge which carries motorway 8 from the mainland to the island of Als.

In the centre of Sonderborg, "this memorial stone was erected as a thank you to all those sent on international missions for Denmark since 1948."

The coastal walk into Sonderborg was dotted with these memorials to Danish soldiers protecting the evacuation of their fellows to Als after the Dybbol defences were overcome.

The eastern side of the Alssund - Sonderborg has expanded a bit to the north in the past century!

The Dybbol battlefield is still largely unspoiled and included a visitor centre in one of the redoubts.  Always good to see a fortress gun.

This crane was for changing gun barrels.

This chap was spotted trying to cram the field gun into a rucksack.

A brief cycle ride away is another even larger redoubt!

Across the road from the redoubt is Dybbol Mill and this memorial.  Sadly while we were visiting the mill the weather closed in so my photos of it are awful.  But fear not, as an er, scale model of the mill features in a forthcoming post.

And the weather picked up soon afterwards.  It was one of those days where we had four seasons, not just in one day but in a couple of hours!

Langemarck

Hot on the heels of my Tyne Cot post, here is another Great War cemetery.  This time is's the German site at Langemarck, into which were condensed a number of smaller German cemeteries.

The overall experience is if anything even more sombre than Tyne Cot.

There is some nice carving work - which doesn't photograph well - in the entrance.

The statues are really rather impressive - and very fitting.

The sheer numbers are very affecting.

The site contains a number of smartened-up German bunkers.

More about the history of Langemarck here:  link.

Finally facing my Waterloo - Waterloo visit 5

The next stop of the day was at the Emperor's final HQ.  Again the tickets bought at Waterloo covered entry to this splendid little museum.  Not many photos due to the rather cramped nature of the rooms but very atmospheric.  In some respects the best location of the day.

Plinth mounted eagles outside the museum.

Then it was off to Plancenoit.  We stopped to admire the very imposing Prussian memorial, complete with flag.

It's quite impressive...

...and somehow very German!

Looking NE across the fields.

After that we had a quick stop at the local Carrefour supermarket to stock up on essentials (wine, beer, chocolate...) and then off back to Calais.  By now we realised we were running a bit late and it would be touch and go as regards catching the ferry we had booked so my right foot was a little closer to the floor then earlier.  All was well until 30 miles short of Calais the weather closed in - the rain varying between heavy and torrential.  As a result we (just) missed our boat and had to wait a hour for the next sailing.  Back in Blighty the precipitation continued most of the way across the dark and busy roads of Kent but we arrived back safely in London at half past midnight.

I tried to hold you back but you were stronger - Waterloo visit 4

Those of us who might be described as the 'Airfix generation' associate Waterloo very closely with the iconic farm buildings of La Haye Sainte.  Though the farm is privately owned and thus not accessible it is quite something to see it still largely unchanged since 1815.  Traffic on the adjacent road has increased in both volume and speed in the subsequent two centuries, however, and this made getting decent photos something of a challenge.

Near LHS is the Gordon Monument, built in 1817 by the family of the late Lt. Col Alexander Gordon.  Gordon was one of Wellington's ADCs and was mortally wounded during the battle, expiring the following day.

Across the road of the Kings German Legion memorial.  This bears the names of those who fell in the battle, with 2md Light Battalion - the defenders of LHS - featuring prominently.  I was intrigued to find among the rather more Teutonic names that of Fanrich (Ensign) Friedrich Robertson.  I'd love to know what his family background was.

I feel like I win when I lose - Waterloo visit 3

From Mont St. Jean we drove next to Hougoumont.  Newly open to the public, the ticket bought at the visitor centre also covers admission to this site.  Above - the track leading from Hougoumont to Mont St Jean.  The tall crops and sloping ground as as per 1815.

A distant view of the Lion Mound.

Back in the courtyard at Hougoumont, the chapel and a bit of wall are all that remains of the main chateau building.

The other buildings survive and are in good shape after a recent restoration.

The area contains many memorials - including this one to the French troops who fell during the repeated assaults on the farm buildings.

The view north.

The recent statue commemorating the defence of Hougoumont.